Travelog

Home? Again?

Posted on: Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 6th Stop: Minnesota (Home), Latest Trip | Leave a comment
When Dorothy gushed, “There’s no place like home,” she was not choosing between Caribbean and Cold. But she got home, as have we, and it feels odd as Oz. The kids were elated like Munchkins. The cat was more manic than the cowardly lion. And despite a palace-high pile of mail, a vibe of relief and accomplishment was also palpable.  

  • But first, Welcome to TGI Friday’s! 
One last time, we had become human cargo and endured a 12-hour travel day, from Puerto Rico to Minnesnowda.  At some point, we entered American airspace.  A layover in Atlanta took us to TGI Friday’s, which served up many “treats”, like enormous portions (compared to the Caribbean) and fast, fervent service (ditto).
After months of limited, often insipid beer selections, the large pale ale in a frost-covered mug flowed with such dynamic flavors it almost provoked a guy to proclaim, “It’s good to be home!”  Almost.
From past Sabbaticals, I’ve learned that the comedown can happen faster than a distressed 747 landing.  So my mantra for that (with apologies to Dorothy) is You can go home again.  Works real well when the Bad Thing happens—like injury and illness.  Now, though, we’re all perfectly healthy and happy—and heading into cold and flu country.
Just because you “can” go home again, does that mean you must?  Yes, I reckon, in this case.  So one must again rely on Destiny—which did recently transport us to tropical delights—to penetrate the clouds and answer that pesky question, “What’s next?”
Closing my eyes, I listen for the little voice inside me.  “Hey, how about another beer?!?” the voice enthuses.  “Yesss!” I reply—only to discover that this voice actually belongs to our comical, expeditious waiter.  Oh well.  The answer remains the same.  And like sleight of hand, he slams another mammoth, frosty pale ale in front of me.
I’ve got a feeling we’re not in the Caribbean any more.  But it’s not all bad to be home.
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  • Déjà Vu:  It’s Like 1997 All Over Again
A BreakAway Mission, for some, might be to hone up on investing—maybe clean up the portfolio and get serious about managing one’s money.  Not me.  Although my pecuniary acumen is enough to bring BreakAways to fruition, I blithely ignored fiscal fitness and ALL media (except local island stuff) throughout this spree.
So it was news to me that the worldwide financial implosion had erased twelve years of hard-earned gains.  That good people were losing jobs and homes like children lose toys. That our already debt-crazy government was casually bailing out mega-corporations that had once had more money than God.  What a buzzkill.
Ouch.  After regaining consciousness, my mind began questioning the logic of spending beaucoup bucks on a vain BreakAway.  Yet, I figured, this money did not disappear in vain—unlike money in the market.  If in stocks, that money would now be worth half as much.  Instead, we got priceless memories that will only appreciate in value over time.
Good times and good timing, right?  For sure, at least if one thinks the mug is half-full.  “How about a refill?” asked the jovial waiter.  “I thought you’d never ask,” I replied as the bottom fell out.
Another of my mantras, composed on our around-the-world BreakAway in an alleged period of productive cleverness, meandered through my beery brain:  It’s not a financial decision.  Boy, do I believe that—and wonder why some people think nothing of buying a new station wagon but then say they can’t afford a family vacation.
Some things—including kids, college, and the pursuit of pleasure—are just more important than money.
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  • Home of the Free and the Brave
Another sure sign of the homeland was the omnipresence of security.  On an island, a resort probably won’t post rules by the pool, a bar may have no closing time, and lawsuits are laughable.  In America—especially in airports—you can’t move without encountering uniforms, signs, rules, announcements, and other symbols of our “freedom” and “safety.”
Hundreds of military men in camo amplified that awareness, though they were likely merely passing through to or from one of our wars without end.  I hadn’t worried about all that in 69 days, either.  God bless.
May they come home alive and well.  We did—and we certainly won our fight for some freedom.
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  • That’s Snow Underfoot, Not Sand
As the plane landed, our sprawling metropolis glowed in fresh snow and city lights.  A blast of frigid air steamed in when the flight attendant opened the jet door.
In Minnesota, an old greeting goes, “Cold enough for ya?!”  You betcha!  It felt cold enough for polar bears too.  But the white stuff that arrived with us created a beautiful cover for the hard, dead earth underneath.  I’d prefer sand, but variety is the spice.
When the first morning had broken back home, the sun came up and pierced a crystalline sky and shone orange on the snow-white lake.  I stood alone outside and watched it, prayed the high of a great Sabbatical might last a while, and realized it might take some days, weeks, or months to readjust.  Guess that’s okay.  All we have is time.
Unpacking will also take a while, but digging out mementoes was a top priority.  Although we traveled light and brought back little, some sea treasures, carvings, masks, and paintings will grace our walls and provoke reminiscence.
Standing in the arctic air was a bitter awakening from a sweet dream:
Had we really done this thing?  How could 69 days fly by so fast?  And why didn’t we stay until, say, May? 

I clutched the painting from Grenadian artist Francis Frances like a Bible.  Then I set it in the snow, let it catch the sunrise, and took one last picture.  The clash of climates and cultures made little sense, but not much does on some days.
Although I’ve been preoccupied with this Sabbatical idea for years, any guru in me was dumbstruck-numb this time.  One more mantra eventually bubbled up for consideration.  Translated, this one means that, with luck and faith, another BreakAway will—will!—happen, even if it’s impossible to know when:  Everything is right on schedule.
Speaking of, life here at “home” is all about schedules.  So it’s time to awaken the kids, feed them breakfast, and send them off to school.  Darn right they’re going to school today—even though we got home way late last night.  Anyway, they’re giddy about seeing their friends.  And I need some time alone.
I’d rather be on a BreakAway.  But now more than ever, the BreakAway—and the joy I experienced in the Caribbean—is alive in me.

Faith, Give Thanks, Destiny

Posted on: Tuesday, February 24th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 5th Stop: Puerto Rico, Latest Trip | Leave a comment

On Day 69—the last day—as we prepare to fly away from Temporary Retirement and Approximate Paradise, some stories stand out. Some days still glow. Some moments feel like sprouting soul-seeds rather than mere memories. Like that Sunday on Grenada…with the sailing races…           

You Can’t Do That! 
 
As we were leaving three-mile-long Grande Anse beach, a young, brawny man yelled angrily from a distance, “You not allowed to take pick-sha of da boass!  I ignored him.  So he approached me, madder and louder. 
 
I met his eyes, grinned, and responded, “Oh?  Sorry.  Too late.  (Smart ass?  You betcha.  But give me a break, rude boy.)  Now his voice boomed,
YOU KIN NOT DO DAT!  DAT MY BOAT!  YOU PAY ME MONEY NOW!  I SAY STOP!  PAY!” 
I walked away, resolutely snubbing him—with nary so much as a rising heartbeat.  Perhaps I’ve gotten used to people who believe they are right and mean no harm, but mistakenly insist, “You can’t do that! 
 
Hmmm.  But maybe I can?  Hey, I just did!  And I’ll do it again—take that picture, ride that bus, drink in that bar, haggle for that fish, laze under that waterfall, kayak in those dodgy swells, home-school my children, and run away from the routine on another BreakAway adventure. 
 
Getting the Picture(s)
 
When I snapped that photo, the third in about 55 seconds, nothing could stop me.  Not even the gnarly, noisy group of teen boys who had been partying (rather than participating) all day in the shade of a sprawling seagrape tree.
 
What were those photos?  Three homemade boats that came into my path, rather like three beached angels, as we were leaving the seashore.  All boats get names in the Caribbean, and the three that lined up at that moment were:  Faith.  Give Thanks.  Destiny. 
 
(Perfect.)
 
On this dazzling day on Grenada’s longest and most illustrious beach, the annual sailing festival of “workboats” (homemade, from plywood, bamboo, and sailcloth) had been racing for hours.  1,000 Grenadians of all ages were competing, boating, dancing, swimming, splashing, partying, feasting, and celebrating island tradition and bliss.  Lucky ducks. 
 
When dreaming and scheming a Sabbatical, visions of days like this—exactly like this—keep me striving to achieve the eventual goal of freedom, however fleeting.  Freedom of time.  Freedom from worry.  Freedom from stuff.  Freedom to wander.  Freedom of thought. 
 
  • It is a free world, right?  So we’re told.  Yet to my constant amazement, folks forget that.  As do I.
 
We are, after all, only human, an often-fussy species.  So instead of freedom, we feel the fear.  
Rather than celebrate our riches, we go deeper into debt.  Born with authenticity, we choose to conform.  When we could be thankful, we become resentful.  When we could take a leap, we stay put.  When blessed with enough, we get greedy.
 
Good Greed! 
 
Well, I’m greedy too.  But on my better days, my desires lean toward time (not money).  Autonomy (not conventionality).  Experiences (not possessions).  And possibility (not entitlement). 
 
So that antagonistic young Grenadian who came at me obviously didn’t know me, what I stand for, or why I took that picture.  He’s right:  There are times in life you need to ask permission, as I would have before aiming the camera at him.
 
But more often, the person you need to ask permission is:  Yourself.  Can I do this?  Who’s going to stop me—if not me?  What am I afraid of?  Do I harbor enough
 
FAITH
 
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The first boat that made me stop and snap a picture, Faith, is the one to climb aboard in order to set your course toward a Sabbatical.  If you hold the hope that—someday—you can launch yourself into a bona-fide BreakAway, the wind is at your back. 
 
Without faith, though, you’ll get stuck in the sand.  Doubt can be a self-fulfilling prophecy.  But so can luck.  Throughout this trip, when people asked, “How do you do it?”  my quick reply was to shrug, “I’m just lucky.”  Many would grin like a wise friend and suggest, “Maybe you’ve learned how to make your own luck? 
 
Maybe that’s what faith is? 
 
GIVE THANKS
 
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The list of things to be thankful for—on this trip alone—would fill pages.  But here are my favorite five: 
  • The kindheartedness of strangers. 
  • The beauty of all these islands.  (Words fail to do justice; I hope some photos do.) 
  • Time to—really!—rest and relax.  In unprecedented quantity and quality.  “Just what the doctor ordered.”  Such peace of mind doesn’t last; jobs and kids and gridlock will see to that.  But at least unfettered serenity is attainable now and then. 
  • The friends, family, clients, acquaintances, and others who helped make this BreakAway possible. 
  • Time with my children, which deserves its own, final travelog post.  But for now, may I mention that a great reason to escape with your children is this:  They won’t be children for long—no matter what else may become of their…
DESTINY
 
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Destiny, like a destination, is what you steer toward.  Fate, on the other hand, is more what happens to you—both “smooth sailing” and “man overboard.”  Destiny suggests providence.  Fate connotes predetermination.
 
Life seems to offer both—but destiny keeps us aware of where the breezes can blow us.  Fate fosters acquiescence.  I was destined to take these pictures; that angry tween boy must accept that fate!
 
Rude boys and naysayers may be able to take away my camera.  And they can bark all they want about “You owe me this” and “You can’t do that.” 
 
But no one can take away my experience of that joyous festival, or make me forget that idyllic memory, or steal my right to drift toward the destiny of my choosing.
 
Dang, I hated to leave that sailing festival.  Hate to end this BreakAway.  Hate to stop this travelog.  But alas, what a nasty word, hate; mixed emotions are racing like sailboats on a blustery day.  But my heart (an overused word I try not to use) is unusually calm.  Warm.  And in awe. 
 
It’s full of faith, gratitude, and alignment.  Hey, if that’s my destiny—if only for a few hours on some of these 69 days—taking Sabbaticals is worth all the risk and hassle.  Just ask that inner voice that sometimes whispers brilliant things. 
 
Said voice suggested this destiny—and destination:
Visit the Caribbean.  Get lost on lost-in-time islands.  Bring the whole family.  See different cultures.  Play in the sea.  Leave everything behind.  Ditch winter.  Eat funny fish and drink new beers.” 
 
You know, I should really listen to that voice more often…
 
But enough of this.  Time’s up.  Anyway, I rarely enjoy reading psycho-spiritual, navel-gazing babble.  My eyes tend to roll back in my head.  The countless writers that exploit lingo like “heart,” “authenticity,” and “aligned” have gotten little attention from me.
 
Guess that’s why I’ve got to write my own.  I hope you are too.  And that your eyes are still in your sockets. 
 
Thanks, dear reader(s), for listening.  And traveling with me.  May we both ignore the folks who say, “You can’t do that!” and seek out some sublime destinies. 
 
Until then…
 
Keep the faith.  And happy sails.
 
 

A Hazy, Crazy Ending in Puerto Rico

Posted on: Monday, February 23rd, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 5th Stop: Puerto Rico, Latest Trip | One comment

Puerto Rico is a legendary island of Latino culture and independence—surrounded by a sea of Caribbeanism. With 4 million residents, it’s one of the most populated—and crowded—isles anywhere. Yet you can find a rain forest, nature preserves, private beaches, a thriving old town, and swanky night life. 

Not that I would know.  I experienced precious little of that.  Oh sure, I’d researched aplenty and was pumped about my must-see list.  But alas, we chose the mixed blessing of staying at the fabulous El Conquistador resort.  So it goes when the recession plunges occupancy rates down to 20%:  Four-star establishments get marked down to two-star prices (plus perks).  You practically own the place. 
  
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“It’s For the Kids”
So went the logic of selecting this boffo extravagance—with its brand-spanking-new waterpark (within inches of the sea).  Who doesn’t love to indulge their kids?  Spoiling them, however, essentially meant spoiling this vagabond’s only chance to salsa the into night.  We were an hour away from most action, and sequestered into gated fabulousness. 

All was not lost, though, as it was a luxury getting lost on the resort’s private island, where ecstasy (the legal kind) is for sale.  So long afternoons featured snorkeling, kayaking, Heineken, plus relentless requisite ruminating about this 69-day Sabbatical.  And about the most disturbing distraction imaginable:  Going home. 

Sunday Boat Party

Away We Go…To Puerto Rico

Posted on: Saturday, February 21st, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, In Transit | Leave a comment

We combed and climbed much of Grenada, and fell in love with its people and pride. Nonetheless, after 28 days, it’s time to pack up and go. One last stop remains:  The most pedigreed sleep, a “Waldorf Astoria” resort on Puerto Rico. With a water park. And a private island. That’s exciting, but I still don’t want to go. Y’know?

Once again, we fly on the dreaded Liat Airlines, so you pack carefully.  They have more restrictions than a hazardous waste dump.  So if your luggage is overweight and your Liat liaison has her undies in a bunch, you’ll be on the floor re-arranging your undies til they approve.  Happens all the time.  So do confrontations and tantrums.  It’s not pretty.

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  • But First, Grenada’s Revenge

We’ve been so healthy, so sick-free during this trip, that of course the last day is when someone finally has to succumb to something.  AllBoy this time, along with another boy from a family we’ve been hanging out with.  Now, when two kids from two fams get Grenada’s Revenge, panic can hit: Might we all run into this bug?  Dare we fly manana?

I repeated a handy BreakAway Five-Word Mantra:  I knew this might happen.  I knew this might happen.  I knew this might happen.  (What we gonna do now?!)

AllBoy went through the ringer for 24+ hours, only pausing to pass out in between.  It would have carried on longer. But as the cab pulled up at 5:55 to take us to the airport, one unfortunate incident inspired me, his dad, to serve a heavy dose of Imodium.

Sorry, but Liat and island airports and a 12-hour travel day is not the time for a half-assed approach.  Needless to say the pills did their trick and we got through the day without incident.  But in the hours and days ahead, AB’s stomach grumblings ramped into to vocal protests as the Imodium worked way too well for way too long.

  • Grenada’s Revenge #2:  Customs Complications

Liat took an hour to approve us and our baggage, and then had trouble printing our boarding passes.  But the real trouble came when Customs blew a gasket over our papers.  Held us another hour.  Held up the plane!  By the time we got on that rusty winged beast, we were getting stinkeye from everybody.  Controllers, pilots, customers, gas pumpers.

The nature of this airline is that they hop around islands all day long, and guests must make connections to eventually find their desired destination.  Thus, and for a million other reasons, delays are de rigueur.  Today was our turn to disrupt that fragile schedule.

See, we had never declared ourselves or cleared customs in Grenada.  Not a good idea, and I knew it all along.  But we came by boat, and every single person I asked would just laugh and laugh.  

I’ve been here five years and I’ve never cleared!”  

I don’t think there IS a customs on this island, ha-ha!”

I asked the Attorney General for you; he says, ‘No problem!’”  

(For real.)

So we floated around the island illegally for a month.  Ha ha ha!  But the oh-so official in the gold-striped uni who held the rubberstamp when it was (past) time to board the airplane seemed to see matters differently.  She was not impressed. Not at all.

And by the way, she also knows the Attorney General!

Long (long!) story short, some yelled and waved hands.  One made vague threats.  A few more uniformed agents (one with a particularly sassy smirk) came out of nowhere to join the brouhaha.  One participant fought tears.  One bent over and held his belly.  One laid down on the floor.  Me?  I mostly just stood there and played along.

I knew this might happen.  I knew this might happen.  I knew this might happen…

There are many things to love about the Caribbean.  But one of them is NOT an occasional propensity to, when issues hit the fan, gather a committee and turn on the Patois and make a big, noisy scene.  That said, they did their work, gave us much guff, kept the plane waiting, and found a way to let us legally enter the country, then immediately exit it, without making a pit stop in jail, Jah bless.

After that, the day was dull, if tedious as we island-hopped our way to P.R.  Oh sure, there was another airport waiting room (they would not let you out of) with a broken TV and no water or AC.  We had our bags searched aggressively over and over as if in NYC the day after 9-11. And feeding the ever-hungry children was a Top Chef Quickfire Challenge.

  • Bienvenido a Puerto Rico!

With practice, anything can become easy.  That includes long travel days—even with illness, border patrol problems, and the ever-present gamble of “Will our luggage make it?  In one piece?”  We did.  It did.  And we were poolside—if dumbstruck—by sundown.

After faraway isles, Puerto Rico came on like a Spanish-speaking Mack truck.  A high-tech, mega-airport!  High-rises! Fast food!  Billboards! Big buses!  Fast freeways!  4 million people—all driving or going somewhere or working at once!

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Welcome to…America?

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G’Bye Grenada, Isle of Passion

Posted on: Friday, February 20th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | 3 comments
Why Grenada? Nobody we know has gone there. Research sources barely mention it. And except for that invasion in 1983, most Americans hardly know of it. Yet it rose through the sea of possibilities and became this Sabbatical’s primary destination. Destiny proved right. I love Grenada, isle of spice. Let me count five ways…

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  • Grenada is an isle of spice. Nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, of course. But “spice” also implies the zest, zeal, and color that Grenadians sprinkle into everything they do.

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  • Grenada is an isle of independence. With a population of only 100,000, they are one of the smallest nations in the western hemisphere. They take their autonomy seriously—supplying their own food, nurturing their culture, and taking care of their treasures.

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  • Grenada is an isle of beauty. Some of us just love sea, sand, and surf. But Grenada also offers mountains, rivers, waterfalls, cliffs, forests, plantations, farms, wildlife, grasslands, a volcano, and a rainforest. And that’s just the natural stuff!

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  • Grenada is an isle of compassion. In much of this world, entitlement and indifference fester. Here, not so much. People remain gentle, generous, and polite. Nothing is rushed, while moments are savored. It’s no wonder they’ve thrived through natural and political hurricanes. Grenadians openly talk about—and show—“love in their hearts.”

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  • Grenada is an isle of passion. How do you describe passion? Maybe you don’t, since it’s more of a visceral phenomenon—what you see, hear, taste, smell, and feel. I’ll really miss Grenada. But the extraordinary, exhilarating sense of life with passion: That’s what I’ll miss the most.

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G’Bye, sweet Grenada. God willing, we’ll meet again.

For A Good Vibe, Ride The “Reggae Bus”

Posted on: Wednesday, February 18th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | 3 comments
On the last island (Bequia), it was called the “Dollar Bus.”  Here, it costs about the same, and is sometimes called the “Reggae Bus.”  They are privately owned vans that run established routes, all across the island. They tend to be crowded but exceptionally polite.  And the drivers, just like in Bequia, are crazy.  But it’s a great ride, and great vibe.  Grenada is way laidback but with good energy.  Just check out some of these heartening bus names and messages…
 
  • Shining Light
  • No Hard Feelings
  • Yes Jah
  • Live On
  • Always Decent
  • Live Simply
  • Vision
  • No Stress
  • Faithfull
  • Vibes
  • Stamina
  • Sweet Heart
  • 100% Grenadian
  • Life Nice
  • Unity
  • Conscious
  • Good People
  • Just Simple
  • Blessings
  • Love is the Answer
  • New Beginning
  • Higher Level
  • Next Level
  • Jus Level
  • Chilaxin
  • Bless Up
 
And on the back window, many owners create customized communiqués for all to see…
 
  • The sky is wide enough for a million stars.
  • Who feels it knows it. 
  • Rise to action.
  • Positive feeling.
  • Follow righteousness.
  • God is Love.
  • All Friends, No Enemies.
  • All Right!
  • You will never fail until you stop trying.
  • Jah have a blessing for you.
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The Great Caribbean Beer-Off!

Posted on: Tuesday, February 17th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | 6 comments
Beer tastes better down here (if that’s possible). It goes well with seafood, sailing, sunning, and as a palate (and/or body) cleanser for the salt after swimming. While all beer is good food, a few barely pass the smell test. So please open your palate, mouth, and mind. It’s time for the Great Caribbean Beer-off!
 
AND THE WINNER IS…STAG! 
 
HERE ARE THE FINAL RESULTS… based on ratings in 10 categories worth 10 points each—possible 100 points.
1st Place:  Stag, 85 points
2nd Place:  Heineken, 70 points
3rd Place:  Hairoun, 69 points
4th Place:  Carib, 55 points
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  • 1st Place:  STAG  (pronounced:  STOG!)
Name:  8.  A bit tacky, but easy to say after you’ve had a few.  Unique.  Macho. 
Story:  7.  Supposedly from Trinidad, a place that makes most people agog and afraid. 
Marketing:  10.  Virtually none—a dark horse.  How cool is that?  Like a private club. 
Smell Test:  8.  Smells pretty okay, for a beer. 
Taste:  10.  Once drinkers discover it, they stick with it. 
Availability:  7.  Pretty common in the southern islands, but nowhere north.  Exclusivity brings bonding? 
Tepidity:  9.  Stands up to the sun, if necessary.  Your best bet when cold can’t be found. 
Size Matters:  7.  Usually in large bottles.  But occasionally a bar fools you with smalls. 
Price:  9.  More than Carib, but much less than Heinie.   
Bonus:  10.  What’s not to love? 

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  • 2nd Place: HEINEKEN  (pronounced:  I-nuh-KEN!)
Name:  8.  Comfortable, familiar, ever-cool.  It’s the International Budweiser.  
Story:  8.  Comes from Holland, or whatever they’re called now.  They need attention. 
Marketing:  9.  Always classy and calming  Love that little red star. 
Smell Test:  4.  Smells skunky, if in a good way.  An acquired scent. 
Taste:  9.  Bottled all over, yet eternally consistent.  Effervescent, welcome mouthfeel. 
Availability:  10.  If any Caribbean joint has only 2 beers, one will be Heinie. 
Tepidity:  6.  Not good warm, but it disappears fast, so… 
Size Matters:  6.  Bad:  usually comes in mini-bottles (250 ml).  Good:  cute little cans. 
Price:  5.  Costs more for less liquid.  Ish! 
Bonus:  8.  Like and old friend.  Plus you look Euro and suave, if you wish. 
 
Our Island, Our Beer
  • 3rd Place:  HAIROUN (pronounced:  I-ROON!)
Name:  7.  Fun to say.  You sound local once you get it right.  Odd spelling, though. 
Story:  10. What St. Vincent used to be called, so big ups for nostalgia and stubbornness.
Marketing:  9.  Vincies love their homegrown.  “Our Island, Our Beer.”  Whoa! 
Smell Test:  5.  Could be worse. 
Taste:  7.  Goes down easy.  No problem, mon. 
Availability:  3.  Unheard of after you leave the SV Grenadines.  Withdrawal risk. 
Tepidity:  5.  No loitering.  Great ice-cold, but the warmer it gets, the more it sucks. 
Size Matters:  9.  Only seen it in 12 ounce bottles.  But never on tap loses a point. 
Price:  7.  Cheaper than Heineken, but not cheap enough.  
Bonus:  7.  Didn’t get tired of it for several weeks.  Great memories. 

Carib:  Worst Caribbean Beer?
  • 4th Place:  CARIB  (pronounced:  CA-RIB)
Name:  9.  Almost Caribbean.  Named after fearless, feral Indian settlers. 
Story:  5.  Not much “there” there.  Brewed in many ports, with many ? waters. 
Marketing:  5.  Little to see beyond omnipresent personal endorsements. 
Smell Test:  3.  Smells so bad it’s often served with a lime. 
Taste:  3.  Kinda Corona-like, maybe worse.  Watery, wimpy colon-cleanser.   
Availability:  6.  Mostly avails S of the N/S Grenadian meridian; occasionally N. 
Tepidity:  1.  Not good cold, worse warm.  Must be ice-cold and pounded carelessly.   
Size Matters:  6.  Good: only comes in large units.  Bad:  only comes in large units. 
Price:  10.  Cheapcheap.  + sold where people party by renegades at miniscule markups.   
Bonus:  7.  Good: often served w/ lime; can be on tap.  Bad:  On tap can be flat & insipid. 
 

NYT Talks Grenada & I Talk Back

Posted on: Monday, February 9th, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | 3 comments
On Saturday, February 7, the New York Times published a lengthy and insightful travel article, “In Grenada, Leaving the Past Behind,” by Ned Martel.  After digging into Grenada for the past 2+ weeks (and exploring the West Indies for nearly two months) I must say he’s mostly spot-on.  Yet a “conversation” with this big-time write-up is too tempting to pass up.  First, his quotes; then my replies…

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Leaving the past behind…”  
Yes, they’re working on building a brighter future.  But the past is omnipresent too, in ongoing hurricane repairs, print, street paintings, and conversations. In a bar where I killed an hour today, four locals debated 1974 and 1979 events the entire time.  Who in America can discuss politics circa the 70s? And would 95% of Americans wear the national colors the whole weekend during Independence celebrations?  No way.      
What I get is the feeling that folks are happy to see me, even if they see me on occasion as a human dollar sign.”  
True dat!  But folks here may have mastered the art of be happy, don’t worry.  And a dollar can buy a lot of happy down here.  An EC buck costs about US$.40, and seems more appreciated than in typical tourist economies—maybe because tourists are still rare on most of the island.  Mercifully, guests are rarely “horossed.”  What I’ve more noted is the generosity:  I couldn’t quantify the poundage of perfect produce that’s been cheerfully given to us.  And in Grenville, a kind vegetable vendor gifted my children two bags of cheesy chips after I’d refused to buy them.  She wins, my kids win, I smile and wag my finger at her coy smirk.  
The intervention.”  
Guidebooks may have clued me in.  But I’ve heard it called everything from “the invasion” to “the intervention” to “the liberation.”  Of course, politics run thicker than callaloo stew down here; I’ve seen people this weekend (their Independence Day) wearing Bishop t-shirts.  He was the one assassinated in ’83, shortly before “the intervention.” 
Islanders have savored relaxation so heartily…”  
No exaggeration:  I hear that word used many times a day by locals.  Like a mantra.  Not only are they selling it, they’re practicing the discipline themselves.  Loitering. Chilling. Hanging out. Grenadians have made it an art form.  They also say “rest” a lot.  If you ask if that’s the restaurant owner sitting at a corner table alone, they’ll just say, “Ya mon, he restin’.”  Nobody would question it if he sat there all night.  
An air of gratitude that suggests they couldn’t have enjoyed the freedoms of today without the despairs of yesterday.”  
Indeed, freedom rules.  Yet the customs and manners here are eerily old school, the people reverent and demure.  Not only do they say thank you, they always say you’re welcome.  As for the mentioned despairs, my guess is a gutsy, national pride has grown from all they’ve been through:  slavery, revolution, US invasion, huge hurricanes.  They work hard and take little for granted, including the fruits of their labor and the ease of feeling free.        
We stop half a dozen times.  
Yep.  At least.  Mr. Welcome Cummings is obviously a classy, high-end driver.  We’ve used recommended renegade drivers, who charge less but don’t have a taxi license, AC, or seatbelts, and who will stop dozens of times.  In the middle of the road.  The authenticity is priceless, and we meet local folks and gain instant insight into real-life Grenada.  Cell phones may be common, but Grenadians still communicate in person and on the move. 
More hypocrisy in the churches than in the rum shops.”  
Ha!  Perhaps, but there’s more macho, booming BS in the rum shops than all the churches combined.  Grenada is uncannily spiritual.  “All family belongs to a church,” I was told yesterday.  “Even the Roman Catholic dance in the aisles,” I was told today.  People paint inspirational messages—not graffiti—all over.  The public-transportation “reggae buses” have names like “Bless Up,” “Always Decent,” and “Yes Jah.”  The back windshield will boast verses as simple as, “God is Love” to “The sky is wide enough for a million stars.”  Like billboards in an American city, you can’t escape these messages—of positivity and faith.    
From the hilltop jail, convicts enjoy the best view of the island.”  
For real.  Methinks they could convert that hoosegow with a view into a chic S&M resort called “Incarceration,” except this conservative island has a dress code and doesn’t even allow cleavage (never mind that men carry knives and machetes).  The harborside hospital also has a stunning location, and has the rep of being full of new equipment—that no one knows how to use.  That, too, could make a nice fantasy resort…for wealthy hypochondriacs?
I could spend all night at Patrick’s, and with Patrick himself.”   

Put simply:  We had the exact opposite experience.  The worst night, worst food, worst encounter with a Grenadian.  Maybe it’s because I don’t write for The Times?  Or perhaps it was just fate. It matters not.  Travel teaches us that bliss comes in 555 forms.  And letdowns happen.  Even his waitress couldn’t handle Patrick that night, and our cabbie (nobody special) was embarrassed upon hearing our story.  We were the only table in the joint that evening.  But were also told that the previous night had been packed with naughty yachties.  Hmmm.  I’m glad the NYT writer had a good experience; that gives me simultaneous skepticism, hope, and—maybe—a reason to try again.

…endure a lot of stares and the occasional shout of ‘White man!’ even as I sit safely in One Dog’s passenger seat.”  
Yep.  My posse is a white man, woman, boy, and girl—all Scandinavian blonde and blue.  Been there, heard that–though we may have looked less “outsider” when traveling in the rusty jalopies of locals.  I prefer to think that we were novelties, not targets.  You know, like a donkey in the Mall of America, where everyone would no doubt yell, “Donkey!”  
We reach a spooky town…  
For sure, if you tour the many neighbohorhoods, villages and towns of Grenada, at least one will strike you as spooky.  Or your driver will tell you it is.  Or a “local lunatic” or “half-brained crackhead” will come at your car.  Spooky, or just predictable island drama?  Still, the worst vibe I felt and mischief I saw was PG compared to a drive through many ‘hoods in Minneapolis.  For fear management, I’ll take Grenada.  (Yet that cemetery at Carib Leap in Sauteurs was sorta creepy…) 
Obama!”  
For now, Americans are cool.  The Caribbean glows with the pride that the USA chose a Black man to be president.  His face appears on bumper stickers, gallery artworks, and roadside paintings—where he sitteth alongside the likes of Bob Marley, Nelson Mandela, MLK, and Fidel Castro.  
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  • In conclusion:  Great story, Ned.  Come back before February ends, and we’ll compare notes and local rums–on me.  And just for some extra theater, let’s have our last supper at Patrick’s. 
 

Cool Breezes Bless Annual Sailing Festival

Posted on: Sunday, February 1st, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | 3 comments

What a glorious Sunday!  Days like this—exactly like this—float like fantasies in the mind when one is plotting a BreakAway.  So when they finally happen, the pleasure feels both familiar and profound.

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Grenada’s sailing festival is a big event, running over several days, with yachties from all over the world filling the harbors, hotels, and bars. That’s fun.  And in our resort, it was easy to make new friends.  Heck, a team from the Shetland Isles of Scotland invited me to join their team for two races.  Unfortunately, the timing didn’t work out. Dang!

The Finish Line

But the real action—at least for the locals—is the “work boat” races on Grand Anse beach.  These are traditional, home-made boats, with plywood for the body, bamboo for the mast, and sponsor-donated sailcloth for the one mainsail.

The towns and outer islands (Petit Martinique and Carriacou) race each other, and yes, there is rivalry!  The race begins on shore with a LeMans-style start, heads out to sea for three turns around buoys, and then returns to shore again.  When the boat hits sand, and a sailor scrambles out and crosses the finish line–and runs to the stand for a shot of rum–we have a winner.

Run for the Rum!

The festival features all the sights, sounds, and smells that make events like these so sweet…

  • An MC sets the stage and keeps things moving and dancing; his subwoofer is the size of an SUV and keeps all three miles of the beach bobbing in riddim.
  • There are junior races (sorry, no rum for you), so the families can get giddy and noisy.

Future Sailor

  • There are rivalries, sure, but also times when a whole team goes missing and the race gets delayed.

Strategy Session

  • The occasional “man overboard” makes for lots of excitement, as the waterlogged sailor swims as quickly as he can to catch up with his craft.
  • Kids play in the sand and swim right around the start and finish lines and couldn’t care less about no races.

Time for a Swim

  • Vendors line the beach selling bbq, oildown (the national dish), souvenirs, hand-made crafts, cold bevies, and lots and lots of beer.
  • Young men gather in groups under seagrape trees to catch a buzz and be cool.

Run from the Big Boys

  • Pale tourists chase around with bazooka-sized cameras choking their necks.

Grande Anse Beach Scene

When it’s time for this fam to sail away, this guy doesn’t want to.  But our bags are again packed, and it’s time to move to our next home in Gouyave, a little fishing village half-way up the island.

Greetings from Grenada

Posted on: Saturday, January 31st, 2009
Posted in: Travelog, 4th Stop: Grenada, Latest Trip | Leave a comment
Getting to Grenada is not easy. Maybe that’s why tourists are relatively rare, and an “undiscovered” label still sticks in most guidebooks. That’s all good by me. We came here, 12 degrees north of the equator and not far from Venzuela and Trinidad, to find out if some authentic, old-world Caribbean still thrives. 

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Good news:  It’s alive.  The BreakAway timetable bestows us with about 27 days here, so much exploration lies ahead.  But the early impressions are pleasing and promising… 

  • It’s about the people.  Every reference source raves about the friendly, happy people.  Maybe all 110,000 of them aren’t, but most I’ve met so far sure are. 

Study in Orange, Part 2

  • They’re landholders.  Grenadians love their land, and most of them own some.  That does a lot to keep pride up, crime down, standards high, and poverty low. 
  • Size matters.  At 118 square miles of volcanic steepness, this place is expansive by island standards.  That gives it some added depth; the locals call inland “the country.” 

Grenada Town

  • History.  Talk about color!  This gem has had tribes fighting over it since the Arawaks and Carabs, then the French and Brits, and not long ago, a group of Cubans and Soviets. 
  • The revolution.  Now, and for all of 35 years, this nation is independent!  There WAS that nine-year period of fledgling socialism, that led to a short but bloody revolution, that led to a short but successful 1983 intervention by US and others.  But since then, government has been quite stable, peaceful, and democratic here.  Folks love to talk (and chuckle) about it, and may mention acquaintances who were part of the drama. 
  • Hurricane wreckage.  This island is allegedly off the main path and had seen no major storm since 1955.  Oblivious to that, Ivan tore through here only five years ago, crushing most of the island into a dreadful disaster.  Though some destruction is still evident, the rebuild has been impressive and inspiring. 

Hurricane Ivan Evidence

  • Education.  Most Americans wouldn’t want to send their kids to school in the Caribbean–with one exception:  St. George’s University has an oceanfront campus, a respectable medical school, a high-school program for residents, and 5,000 lucky students from all corners of the world. 
  • Natural beauty.  Find it anywhere and everywhere here.  Diversity too, from inland lakes, rivers, and waterfalls, to craggy cliffs, rural fields, and 3-mile long beaches.
  • Quaintness.  They take their old-world Caribbean vernacular seriously.  Fat new-money homes are rare, as are sprawling resorts.  Instead, owner-occupied, charming little venues dot the waterside.  And houses come in rainbows of colors—though the red-roof tradition carries on. 

St. George's, Granada

  • Art.  Batik is big.  Face carvings and masks tell stories.  And bright paintings hang all over.  There’s even a thriving arts and crafts market.  It’s as if Grenadians are trying to outdo each other sometimes. 

Faces

  • Safety.  Practice good travel hygiene, of course.  But after that, this place has a rep that gives little to worry about.  I saw two uniformed police dancing at a packed event.  And one white local told of being the lone whitey entering a big cricket match.  When some teens with ‘tude started harassing him, a crowd of older natives (all strangers) surrounded the bad boys and scolded them long and hard. 
  • Food.  Necessity is the mother of all big gardens.  But they eat well and cheap here, thanks to plentiful fisheries, rich volcanic soil with organic gardens, and generous, tasty traditions.  Known as the “spice island,” Grenada grows one-third of the world’s nutmeg, and much of its clove, cinnamon, and more. 

Spice Plantation

 

  • Tourism.  The revolution didn’t help.  The hurricane hurt.  Two charter airlines just went bankrupt.  And remoteness rarely draws.  There’s just enough tourism here to boost the economy, but not so much that it’s choking the locals. 

Somewhere Over the Cruiseship

  • Culture.  It’s different—more diverse—down here.  English influences outweigh America’s. There are hints of South American, India, and Asia.  It’s a melting pot, a spicy stew.  But for sure the main influence around here remains authentic Caribbean, no:  uniquely Grenadian.  
  • Partiology.  They call it “limin,” and make a science of it.  Students, locals, tourists:  It don’t matter.  Bars, beaches, and resorts can become one rollicking party, any time of the day or night.  Bar closing time:  Until…

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  • God Bless Our Nation.  So hangs a sign, in the flag colors, thoughout the island.  Manners matter.  Island and tourist dress code is not only in effect, but debated in the papers.  It can feel conservative to Americans, but these little courtesies stand for respect, pride, tradition, and preservation of something sacred.  God Bless Grenada! 
Flag of Grenada